Bismillahir Rahmani Rahim
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Work of wind power.
However, the power of wind is created from asymmetry. In school geography we read that the heat of the sun is greater towards the equator and less towards the poles. It is this heat asymmetry that creates airflow. As air warms and rises, cooler air moves in to fill the void, resulting in a flow.
So wind is a force, when it blows over sea water it transfers some of its energy to the sea water, causing the sea water surface water to move forward. This advance is not linear, but forward in a circular path—meaning that the water first rises from the bottom to the top under the influence of force, touches the peak, and then descends under the influence of gravity. The point is-
Take any one of the particles as a reference, see, first rise clockwise, reach the highest height and then come down according to the law of gravity. When the particle is perpendicular to the direction of the wave, it is called Transverse Waves. This is the wave in the sea.
Seabed positioning protects mariners from any accidents and collisions with large ships or small cruise ships.
Thus, as the wave advances toward the shore, the depth of the near-shore area decreases, causing the wave to decay, the swell speed to decrease, and the wave crest to lose speed with the bottom and break on the shore.
Wave length depends on wind speed and pressure.
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